I usually use a Q-tip to do the actual cleaning. They had a little black-and-white TV at the time - 12" or so I would guess. Actually, I *DID* exactly that earlier in the morning of that day. Consider anything with IC pins, surface contacts, etc. You can find it in most boating stores. I told her about the battery and corrosion. We had a Zektor HDMI switcher that swapped between the computers, the PS3 and the DirecTV. Water + electricity =. First off, don a breathing mask to help shield you from any mold spores, as well as the potent fumes emitted by the bleach you'll be using. This was a catastrophic storm, as I said previous, worst in 135 years. I'm going to go throw my water-damaged laptop into the dryer for a few hours. I ended up having the entire back of my truck filled with the style cartons you find at 7-11 or something similiar. Disassemble all of the components until you have bare PCB's. I've read a lot of people with great advice on removing water and even sea water. Of course an external sensor on a on-board hot spot would be perfect, but who has that available? I've repaired some electronics that have had exposure to some liquids. The first job is to get rid of the mold. Maybe give it a wash with isopropyl afterwards, but use the 50-70% cheap stuff. Damage to electronics due to water is actually due to unexpected circuits forming and burning out components. Look for damage or corrosion. 2. I'll second this. I only used "corrosion block" every 6 months to a year or so. (I rather imagine that most of the boater's stuff has to ALREADY be mold resistant, which does help stop the spread of mold.). So check your heat sensors. (I live in an area without basements, both because of shrink-swell soil and high water tables.). If you can't take this gear down to individual circuit board level, then there is little hope for it. 91% non-alcoholic. Depending on how nasty it got, you could spend an hour just cleaning out the insides of a single remote control. It will provide an absolute zero moisture environment. but I'm no chemist, so they might well be using different names to describe the same materials. It includes a flooded basement due to a failed sump pump. So when I found that the sandwich grade ziplock bag had not been the water proof cell phone protector that I had expected, the cell phone went into the warm oven, which took less than 30 seconds to set up, and I went on to other activities. I'd try powering them up, but if they've been underwater then the water likely got in through the pressure equalization holes. Rinse thoroughly with first distilled water and then alcohol (90% would be best). Many people who don't live in an area where floods are a real likelihood don't buy the extra flood insurance, which is probably the case here ("Since we are not in a flood plain, our insurance for this is woefully inadequate."). We had the electrical panel dried out, taken apart and inspected by an electrician.The water didn't actually reach the ceiling. "Completely" is the key phrase. That lurking moisture is why pure alcohol is so important. Or it might be enough to let it soak longer (but with more corrosion) and shake it more. This should remove anything not removed by the wd40, and will remove all the wd40 too.4: Immerse in a second pure alcohol bath that you try to keep clean -- ie use a different bucket than step 3 -- try to get everything off in step 3. After trying so many solutions, I decided to spray the entire room down with 50/50 bleach and water mix. I have recovered many water soaked laptops using this and failing to get under the BGAs will lead to failure later on. A little goes a long way. Those bulbs are quite sensitive. True. Once that is done, look at the board and see how clean it came out. You can try to bake the electronics, but you really have to watch the temperature. You don't need to kill the mold, just get most of it off. According to grandpa, he just hosed it out with a garden hose and left it to dry. The next day, I made my destination, and the day after that, I got the screwdriver out. Hydrogen peroxide is an antifungal, antibacterial, and antiviral solution that kills molds. Get under components with a pipe cleaner. 2. Disclaimer: I've never cleaned a full system, just components like keyboards, mice, and a portable CD player. (This is called "souping up" your car. Get some DISTILLED WATER. 8 When the moldy or mildewed area is gone, take the bag and dump out the baking soda. (you can buy wd40 by the gallon)3: Rinse with as pure ethyl alcohol/rubbing alcohol as you can find -- closest to 100%. My tarp had a rip in it, unbeknownst to me, and when I stopped, THEY FILLED WITH WATER. It's cheap (1$/pt?) Dry right away. I cleaned with pure rubbing alcohol. Most of what you manage to save probably didn't need your help to survive. not the answer you want but its the smart answer. Use plenty -- scrub with a toothbrush at this point to remove anything stubborn. The ions from the bleach will be under whatever you spray on after the fact. Living on a boat, I have had plenty of opportunity (too much!) Anything with a motor in it is going to be trouble to get water out of. Wire wound and thin film pots can be greatly affected by corrosion and are usually sealed just well enough to hold in water but discourage drying out. Is it possible to clean electronic devices that may have mold spores inside of them, seeing as I have no way to clean the inside of these devices (i.e., DVD players, computers)? In 2011, set it on its one side. Maybe. It will protect your liver and kidneys. And no smoking around the alcohol, of course! The easiest way to do this is baking. :) Good luck! Let it dry completely. Get into the grooves carefully to remove the mold. For smaller items, or ones you're not taking apart, the last bath could be rubbing alcohol, which would make it dry much faster. It depends on the degree of corrosion. This is increasing the death rate of the mold, but at the cost of reducing the life of your electronics. Spray on a thin film, clean the electronics, let them dry thoroughly. So unless you can point me to a source that says otherwise, rubbing alcohol is fine. Actually, you want to do a little more than "completely". I mean when Hurricane Ivan made landfall only a handful of places got 2"/hour. but that was for spilled liquids. His wife came home and thought, "Hey, I'll make a frozen pizza for dinner! Wife threw up the alarm that the water was starting to pool, so I went out, cleared the sewer watched it all drain in, no pool and went back in and started breakfast. [bender]"Heheheheh Lightweights! Moving air inside the bag would probably speed the process. A suggestion I will follow when we rebuild the basement. You'll want to open all the cases to do this, and then ideally blow them dry with a compressed air nozzle. Painting or caulking over mold will not prevent mold from growing. Get the 97% not the 85%, yes it costs 2x as much, so that's $1.50 for a pint. "PB Blaster" is a great product in it's own right, though. Assuming you have a big pile of stuff to do this to, and 3 large buckets, and an oven as big as all 3 buckets combined, I've just described a 5 step assembly line process, where every 20 minutes you can move something ahead one step. The exposure which the electronics have already experienced have more than likely started corroding the potentiometers, i.e. Once the visible alcohol is gone, you'll still need to dry the board. Certain things just plain can't be saved. As for disinfecting it: mold is heat sensitive - it likes cold wet dark environments best (in sealed cask, furry adipocere!) Some took, literally, years to get working again. So be aware of this. To drive off the water you will need a nice dry enclosure which can be heated to a relatively high temperature, say 130-140 deg F or so. If the electronic equipment is stored or used in a moisture laden area, this dust is the perfect environment for mold spores to grow. Using the washcloth or sponge, gently scrub the mold or mildew using the baking soda to help. The screen was home-built for around $80 in parts, so I can re-create that. to be a write-off. > With modern equipment I'd be a bit more gentle Actually, we remove mold from electronics all the time. Bleach will oxidize all the metals, including the ones you thought couldn't rust! Most electronic components will not be damaged by water. the ONLY things I would hand-clean are the old ancient things that can't be replaced (if you have such things). Only to find the newest waterfall down to the basement. It's designed to be used on PCBs that are already populated, to the point where with (some, not this one) washes it can be used with the circuit POWERED! They've got a lot more expertise than I do, although I find their stories interesting to read. 5. Mmmmm urine soaked roast turkey mmmm Just stop, before you end up adding parentheses and reimplementing Lisp. Flux wash is the answer for washing the PCBs. :). Even water that appears to be clean can bring in other problems. Careful with that, because I had a co-worker who actually did this with a laptop (his dog peed on it). After a couple items you should replace the second bath - and you might as well replace the first-bath with the water you just stopped using for the second bath. Follow up with some rubbing alcohol to displace the water and let things dry for a day or two before reassembly. I better preheat the oven". But I usually just go out, clear the sewer with a rake and that's the end of it. - so having your electronics running outdoor for a day or two should take care of disinfecting the inards. It will take time, warmth, and air movement. They're easy to scrub away with a mold cleaner mixture of 1/2 cup bleach, one quart of water and a little detergent. Then use bleach to clean the rest of the internals, but not the electrical parts (CPU, GPU, RAM, etc.) -- well away from any sparks or flame (ie NO SMOKING :-). In 2012, the other side. If you re-read the original post, you'll see that those things are of course on our list. 5-10 minutes should be plenty. You should get this stuff, dilute it and coat the room, and everything in it. The OP mentions mold. Again, re-read the original post. Wet Cleaning - YMMV, etc. Physically wipe gently to remove surface mold and debris without scratching the photos. It will oxidize the metals very badly. Just make sure that you only run PCBs and so forth, and NOT hard drives through the dishwasher. Mix 3 cups of water to a cup of bleach. Split top, about 12 to 18 inches deep. Also, fill your car's gas tank with soup. I washed them with dish soap and pet-urine deodorizer. If you leave moldy stuff in your house, it will spread through the whole house via A/C. Water can be very hard to get out of modern electronics. If you want to get flood insurance, you need to get it through a federal program. Fractions of a millimeter. If you use a bleach/water solution as suggested, the little drops will leave deposits of conductive material. Oregon Supreme Court Approves Measure To Limit Self-Checkout Lanes, Bay Area Group Pushes $1,000 Universal Basic Income For Everyone, Rolls-Royce Plans To Build Up To 15 Mini Nuclear Reactors In Britain, State Officials Ask Trump Administration To Pull 3D-Printed Gun Files Offline, It's Official: Solar Is the Cheapest Electricity In History, http://www.nocorrosion.com/corrosion-control.htm, http://www.blasterchemical.com/images/msds/CSP-Aerosol-nov06.pdf, bleach and mold - a summary of suggestions, Re:dunking electroncis whole is a bad idea, not as completely powered off as you think. And never were touched. As a preventive measure, once it's all clean and squeaky like that, maybe spray a coat of polyurethane or some other waterproofing stuff that's non-conductive onto all parts that could conduct and aren't supposed to. Buy a couple gallons from a chem supply company and a handful of *hogs hair* brushes (not metal brushes, obviously, and not nylon, not so obviously). It's the exact same way that a tree sucks water up through the root system. Use pure isopropyl alcohol (not the 66% stuff) which will mix with remaining water and should help you both clean up and kill the mold. Is it good enough to simply clean the outside of them? Comments owned by the poster. Now the hard part. Use around 3% of hydrogen peroxide in a bottle and saturate on the affected area, leaving it for some minutes. The same quality water, and the toilet was probably worse exposure, and just removing power from it saved it. Remove all mold you can see. Those work just like batteries, creating electrolysis in the presence of water. Getting all the mold out of them -- the second priority is having them work again. Mold may be lodged in crevices or tiny compartments inside the electronic device. My grandparents' house was flooded in the mid 70's. Fix the water problem completely and clean up all the mold before you paint or caulk. Oh, and that hot spot would be the voltage regulator (mostly to be found between the cpu and the rear ports). I've used it many many times. Clean the outside and vacuum the openings. Most PCs now have bios batteries. This will ensure that you are dislodging any dust or mold that may still be on the inside and capturing it I have recovered many water damaged items. 3. Usually rubbing alcohol works well. The Fine Print: The following comments are owned by whoever posted them. Well, no, last I looked it was mostly ethyl (i.e., neutral grain spirits, i.e. Warm sunshine is very good, too (and helps kill mold) but the humidity outside is usually pretty variable, so you wouldn't want it to remain outside in the evening to collect dew. I've not used that on electronics, but I did use it on an old car I had. However if you can really get at the compenents this method will work. Windex) and a soft brush, then rinsing it thoroughly with distilled water. One trick we used in making REALLY high power CB radio amplifiers was to bake the transistors for about 2 hours. The idea is the heat doesn't actually remove the water, it just helps keep the humidity mobile. Put them in a dish washer, without any soup. You had homeowners insurance right? Some coatings are natural shellac which is alcohol soluble. 6. Think, anything metal that may be in an otherwise emptied bathroom (towels, floor mats, and even the shower curtain had already been removed). I doubt much you do will make a difference at this point - most of your gear was doomed from day 1. Often used in the aviation market to protect wing/fuselage interiors, it is also sprayed directly on avionics to reduce corrosion. For them, they change clothes on the way out of work and don't take them home. Remember, nothing oil based like acetone or gasoline. Pour a very small amount of rubbing alcohol onto a clean cloth. It was at the bottom of the rack and the water was at about 3' when I killed the power. Build a system that even a fool can use and only a fool will want to use it. BUY MORE SOUP. Even though there was no power applied to these devices, the dissolved minerals in the water are enough to facilitate electrolysis between dis-similar metals and destroy the devices. You can do all the above things as a wash instead of a bath, IF you can effectively get to all the surfaces Spraying on a nonconductive corrosion resistor (like the above mentioned products seem to be) sounds like it would tend to extend the life of the device; it might also seal in any remaining mold spores, which I'd consider to be a good thing - but I'd still do a bleach-bath first to kill as much as you can. Air ) the BIGGEST thing you can point me to a storm sewer your. It soak longer ( but with more corrosion ) and shake it.! 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